How to cut bevels and angles | B is for Bevel

There are two kinds of angled
cuts in wood working: the miter and the bevel. There is no exact definition of
the difference between the two, but in general I think of a
bevel cut as one made by tipping the saw’s blade while a miter is made by
angling the workpiece. I also tend to think of miters
as cutting an angle across the face of a board like
for a picture frame while a bevel creates an angle
on the edge of a board. These are very loose definitions
and frankly it doesn’t really matter what you call them, they’re
all just angled cuts. You might use a miter saw to
make both bevels and miters. Most of the time, you’ll rotate
the saw to the angle you need and make a miter cut. But, if you stand the board on
its edge you can make a bevel. A compound miter saw
like this one can also be tilted to make beveled cuts. I have rarely used this method. It’s mostly used if you need
to combine a miter and a bevel, say for certain ceiling moldings,
and that can get complicated. On my table saw, I use my miter gauge or a miter sled for making these miters. For these the wood is tilted,
and the blade remains straight. This is pretty standard for
making picture frames. But, if you want to make a
bevel, a long angled cut along the edge of a board,
you need to tilt the blade. This is the only way to
make an angled cut when you just can’t raise
the blade high enough for a regular miter cut. Most table saw blades will
tilt in one direction and have some sort of a scale
to indicate the angle of the bevel. In my experience, these
will get you close, but they aren’t very precise. I prefer to use a digital bevel gauge. This one is called a bevel box. First, you zero it to your tabletop. Then, it magnetically sticks to
the side of your blade. When you get your blade set
to the angle you want move your rip fence into position
and make your cut. I prefer to run the workpiece,
the part I want to keep, along the fence and let
the cutoff piece fall away. I don’t like to run the risk
of having the small cutoff piece get trapped between
the fence and the blade. It can cause it to throw back at you. Plus, I always like to stand
a little to the side of the blade in case something
does get thrown back. Always use some sort of
push stick or push block to keep the workpiece against the fence and your fingers away from the blade. If you’re making bevels
using your miter gauge, I don’t think it really matters
too much which side of the blade your workpiece is on. Without the rip fence in the way the cutoff piece can’t bind, and it’ll just fall away without
any risk of kickback. But, it’s still probably a good idea
to stand off to the side.


  1. i just finished reconfigurating my Workshop so i can move my tabelsaw out in the Garden and work ther gues what happend in the moment wen i switched it on



  2. If you want to cut acute bevels on the table saw you can clamp the board against a sacrificial board and run everything through standing upright. Hope that makes sense. Took me some time to figure this out.

  3. If I'm making multiple bev cuts, I tend to stand well off to one side. If a few off-cuts build up near the back of the blade it is possible for one to catch a tooth and zing off across the shop at an alarming rate. If cutting compound angles these pieces usually have nasty sharp pointy bits and act something like shuriken. So, off to the side, and don't be lazy like me, keep the out feed area free from build up. Happy cutting ;¬)

  4. There are 2 types of angled cuts in woodworking, the miter and the- MICRO-JIG: MAKER OF THE GRIPPER. WORK SAFER, WORK SMARTER.

  5. I believe "Miter" refers to the joint. A bevel is a type of cut. i.e. putting a bevel on a piece of wood or putting pieces of wood together with a miter joint.

  6. Using Premium wood for demonstrating cuts is bad.. If you keep doing things like that you are going to go to woodworking HELL.

  7. Hey Steve, you're hilarious. It just dawned on me why your patreon site doesn't interest me… no commercials. Your commercials are truly funny and I love them, why would I want to avoid them. Just a thought, not sure you can do anything with it… but just in case.

  8. I can't wait for C is for Chamfer and M is for Mitre. Please make it the exact same video.
    (wait.. a chamfer is a bevel or miter that doesn't extend to the face on both sides of a board right?)
    Actually on second thought, M is for MICROJIG!

  9. Maybe it's just a mitre if it goes grain side to TO left of the blade side for if bevels are right to the other side grain side maybe calling bevels that run to the other side from the right side of the blade side are mitres and bevels are on the other side of the normal side of the blade side of that side. Couldn't be much simpler, hey??

  10. B is for bevel. Bevel, bevel, bevel.
    B is for bevel. Bevel, bevel, bevel.
    B is for bevel & bevel gauge
    And B is for… MicroJig: Maker of the GRR-Ripper

  11. Steve, would you consider doing a video comparing your Incra Miter Gauge to a crosscut sled/miter sled? Maybe the pros and cons of each, or when you prefer to use one or the other. I've been thinking of getting the Incra 1000HD but would love to hear your opinion first.

  12. "There two kinds of angle cuts in woodworking: the miter and the…" WAIT you didn't say micro jig. I've always found your delivery of their sponsorship at the beginning of your episodes to be one of the more effective product placements on YouTube. For some reason now it's completely thrown me off that you didn't say micro jig. If they ended their sponsorship of you, they still owe you a few checks. I don't think I'll be able to watch your videos without waiting for the micro jig part at the beginning. Also, as always awesome information! Thanks for sharing!

  13. Stand off to the side… It hurts bad when a big piece hits you… It's less than an second. So your matrix moves aren't going to work. 👊🏻 Don't ask me how I know.

  14. Nice job of making it understandable! Also kudos for tying in the safety angle as well.  There is a big difference between being a "safety sally" and just using some common sense!

  15. If anyone wants to see a really cool application of angle cuts search "my dream workbench" on youtube , he uses a circular saw and a straight edge to make a dovetail to attach leg frames to worktop.

  16. A video where the Micro-jig was important and no Micro-jig opening? Informative video though. Will the bevel box help check your blade even for the basic 90 degree cut? And do you check your blade every time you set it back to 90 also?

  17. Just to let everyone from the UK know, the code "WWMM" also gives £50 off the Casper Mattress in the UK when the link "" is clicked and it redirects you to the UK site.

  18. what is the black piece behind the blade called? I believe it helps prevent twisting the work piece after the cut. I want one for my cheapo table saw. thanks

  19. Hello @steve ramsey, im your fans from Indonesia, can you make a video jig for bevel cuts in a diy table saw, which is my saw blade just only can make a straight cuts, thanks

  20. So if a Rabbit is a 'channel' cut into a piece of wood that goes with the grain, and a Dado is a channel cut cross the grain, what would you call a channel that's cut diagonally against the grain?

  21. Is it possible to make a long 52° bevel cut using a table saw? Say I want to make 38° and 52° bevel cuts for spring angle, custom molding.

  22. I need to make a 30 deg cut in the center of a board and it has to come out square not like it would on a table saw or miter saw. to hold a piece of board with an angle into the board instead of 90 deg. howwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww ???????????

  23. thought of the rotor, putting a board on the side to lift it to the 30 deg but then the blade will not reach to make the cut.

  24. I am having a difficult time cutting a long bevel with my table saw. The first part I push through seems to cut fine but as the board gets longer the bevel gets progressively 'un square'. I have check to make sure everything is level and square, but a bit of a novice at this. Any help would be appreciated.

  25. I need to bevel a 1×6 edge the full width of the board and all I have is a 12" miter saw. Any suggestion how to do this accurately with what I have? I basically want to make a box with 1x6s that are joined with 45s at the corners. Thanks!

  26. Awesome videos, I have picked up a lot in the last few weeks since I found your channel. One suggestion I have is more beginner videos. Those helped me the most and I wish you had ones showing joints as well. Simple things like your pocket hole video would be awesome but covering simple things that very beginners dont know yet like how to make rabbets and actually join them and dados, etc. I find a ton of videos showing things like making mitre cuts for corners but then they dont actually show how you join them or just gloss over it. I really enjoyed the quick beginner videos. Thanks for all of your work. looking forward to checking out the course sometime in the future when I can.

  27. Hi steve, what method do you recommend to check the angle on a circular saw to make bevel cuts? Will the digital bevel gauge work to check the angle on a circular saw? If not, what method do you recommend to check the angle on my circular saw?

  28. Do you have any advice for cutting a LONG bevel on a 30” (or longer) long edge for a cabinet door? I made a jig for cutting bevels and it DOES work fine as long as the cut is on a short edge of the board; i.e., when the panel is about the same length as the table saw bed; but if if it’s a longer edge I can’t successfully clamp the board to my jig. Any help would be appreciated.

  29. When cutting a bevel on the table saw AND you're working with an outside dimension say, for a tea box or something, how do you make sure your cut is dead on when you can't see exactly where the blade will land at the top of the board (coming up from the table)? Is there a trick to this? I'm sure you could use a stop block for subsequent cuts but, what about the initial cut? A newb question for sure.

  30. Thanks for all your videos, Steve. Have a question – I need to make an angled cut on a curved piece of wood. How would you do that?

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